KPower Industries K24 swap

[moosefro]

I finally got the pedal dance to work in my car. I know a lot of people just get the trac box to activate it at a button push but just in case some people are struggling and don't want to spend the extra money, I figured I would post what worked for me.
My idle was set too high (1050) so no matter how much the car warmed up it wouldn't ever be in a state to accept the inputs. Dropping it to 850 made activating pedal dance easy and consistent to start. It only needs to be below 1000 but my brake pedal causes the rpm to jump so I went lower than necessary.

[Four_wheel_drifts]

Originally Posted by RedReplicant

… I wrote a long post about it on another forum a couple of weeks ago and the number of issues surprised even me.

Would you please post a link to that post or pm me? I’d like to read it. Thanks.

[RedReplicant]

If anyone was ever thinking of running something stiffer than the rubber WRX mounts that come with the kit ... don't even bother trying. Took me two minutes of run time to figure it out.

edit:

Anchor 9024 is what is included in the KPower mount kit
Anchor 9023 is also listed for a WRX, it is what some refer to as "STI Mounts". They're larger than the 9024 and you have to run the drivers side flipped to clear the oil pan.

Probably just buy the 9024 if replacing the mounts.

[RedReplicant]

Going to be testing this option for the shift selector rod here soon
https://www.instagram.com/p/C2-y-FmRolc/

[redlined600]

Maybe a bit of semi-useless info, but I was digging around a found that both the TSX and S2000 use manifold braces. This may be a moot subject if Kpower offers/switches to the balancer shaft setup.

#9 might be a second brace as well but I couldn't confirm.

[captain awesome]

This may have been buried in this thread somewhere but a homebrew brace can be made pretty easily with cheap materials.

Originally Posted by captain awesome

As pointed out by RedReplicant earlier about the intake vibes that ASM was experiencing, I decided to make an intake brace. I hammered some 3/4 steel tubing flat on the ends, drilled some holes, and good to go. The two bolt holes that are typically used for a throttle cable bracket and a threaded boss on the block connect the two. It's probably not an ideal angle but has to be better than nothing.

[redlined600]

Originally Posted by captain awesome

This may have been buried in this thread somewhere but a homebrew brace can be made pretty easily with cheap materials.

Nice, I made a similar brace (maybe I posted in my build thread).

[zuldajin]

Jumping on the forums to see if members on here can offer any knowledge or wisdom.


My car is primarily a track car running a 4Piston K24 NA engine making around 280whp and 200wtq.

The issue that I've been having for a while now is when on track, and when things seemingly get hot, the clutch pedal doesn't come back up off the floor during gear shifts. And I'd have to use my foot to bring the pedal back up.

I would clutch in to grab a gear, and it would be hard to move the gear lever into a gear as if the clutch wasn't fully disengaging.


When I first encountered this problem last year, thinking it was air getting into the hydraulic system. I replaced the clutch master cylinder, slave cylinder with new OEM units, and stainless braided clutch line and I still am encountering the problem despite replacing all external clutch parts with new components.

Have bled the clutch slave countless of times with various brake fluids (Castrol SRF, Endless RF650, Brembo 64T)

I'm running the Verus clutch fork with Kpower steel flywheel and Exedy stage 1 clutch.

Strangely enough, this problem only occurs when things get hot on track with repeated redline shifts, and the car shifts fine on the street after everything has cooled off.

Also any tips on how to drop the transmission with the engine still in place? Seems harder to do with a K-swapped car than the stock FA20 setup. My next move is dropping the transmission to inspect all the clutch components.

[RedReplicant]

I've heard of this happening before, you might find something if you search the FB group.

As far as dropping the transmission in car, it is pretty easy as long as you sufficiently clearanced the chassis so the transmission can drop down through the mounting horns on either side.

Remove the slave cylinder first and then put a block of wood under the oil pan and jack up the motor to tilt it backwards. HF transmission jack is your friend.

[sfruski]

Originally Posted by zuldajin

Jumping on the forums to see if members on here can offer any knowledge or wisdom.


My car is primarily a track car running a 4Piston K24 NA engine making around 280whp and 200wtq.

The issue that I've been having for a while now is when on track, and when things seemingly get hot, the clutch pedal doesn't come back up off the floor during gear shifts. And I'd have to use my foot to bring the pedal back up.

I would clutch in to grab a gear, and it would be hard to move the gear lever into a gear as if the clutch wasn't fully disengaging.


When I first encountered this problem last year, thinking it was air getting into the hydraulic system. I replaced the clutch master cylinder, slave cylinder with new OEM units, and stainless braided clutch line and I still am encountering the problem despite replacing all external clutch parts with new components.

Have bled the clutch slave countless of times with various brake fluids (Castrol SRF, Endless RF650, Brembo 64T)

I'm running the Verus clutch fork with Kpower steel flywheel and Exedy stage 1 clutch.

Strangely enough, this problem only occurs when things get hot on track with repeated redline shifts, and the car shifts fine on the street after everything has cooled off.

Also any tips on how to drop the transmission with the engine still in place? Seems harder to do with a K-swapped car than the stock FA20 setup. My next move is dropping the transmission to inspect all the clutch components.

Overfill the clutch fluid reservoir. Fill to the absolute max you can The pickup at the back is going dry under braking, and you are sucking in air on the downshifts. I had this problem on my FRS race car when I still had the FA20. I spent six months chasing my tail to figure out what was happening.

[redlined600]

Clearly I missed a step, where does the primary ground go to? Just pick a spot on the block or somewhere specific?