dp1 track build (NY)

[dp1]

Next step - reaching out to Element Tuning to chat about oil pressure and other things to make the car more reliable long term. Everything on the car worked great for daily street driving and 21 HPDE/AX days this year.

[dp1]

Thanks for your help @CSG Mike and @Jackson Racing, looking forward to the new c38 supercharger kit . It'll be a fun track season, 13 HPDE days booked, 3 more lined up and more to come...

[dp1]

Added fluid info, with help from @CSG Mike:

Engine oil, with Jackson Racing oil cooler
Type: Motul 300V 5w30
Amount: 5.5 liters (almost the same in quarts)
Interval: Varies widely based on conditions and driver, cheap insurance to use HQ fluid and change more often than recommended by manufacturer.

Transmission fluid
Type: Motul Gear 300
Amount: 2.2 liters full flush
Interval: Consider once every 6 track days, or any time you feel there is degredation in the shifter. If shifter feels better immediately after fluid change, shorten your interval by a track day. If it doesn't improve in feel, lengthen by a track day until you find your happy medium.

Brake fluid
Type: Torque RT700
Amount: 1 liter full flush, 0.5 liter partial flush
Interval: Brake fluid is "as needed" or once a year. If your pedal feel degrades, partial 0.5l flush. Full 1l flush when changing fluid types.

Differential fluid
Type: OS Giken OS-250R 80W-250
Amount: 1.3 liters full flush
Interval: Every 6-12 track days, depending on how hard you drive. If the rear starts feeling looser, or differential is overheated, change fluid.

Jackson racing SC fluid
Type: Rotrex fluid
Amount: 1 liter for complete fill when kit is first installed. Fluid changes will require less as fluid in radiator does not flush out without rad removal.
Interval: At least once every 2y/50k mi.

[aegisdrgn]

Originally Posted by dp1

Added fluid info, with help from @CSG Mike:

Engine oil, with Jackson Racing oil cooler
Type: Motul 300V 5w30
Amount: 5.5 liters (almost the same in quarts)
Interval: Varies widely based on conditions and driver, cheap insurance to use HQ fluid and change more often than recommended by manufacturer.

Transmission fluid
Type: Motul Gear 300
Amount: 2.2 liters full flush
Interval: Consider once every 6 track days, or any time you feel there is degredation in the shifter. If shifter feels better immediately after fluid change, shorten your interval by a track day. If it doesn't improve in feel, lengthen by a track day until you find your happy medium.

Brake fluid
Type: Torque RT700
Amount: 1 liter full flush, 0.5 liter partial flush
Interval: Brake fluid is "as needed" or once a year. If your pedal feel degrades, partial 0.5l flush. Full 1l flush when changing fluid types.

Differential fluid
Type: OS Giken OS-250R 80W-250
Amount: 1.3 liters full flush
Interval: Every 6-12 track days, depending on how hard you drive. If the rear starts feeling looser, or differential is overheated, change fluid.

Jackson racing SC fluid
Type: Rotrex fluid
Amount: 1 liter for complete fill when kit is first installed. Fluid changes will require less as fluid in radiator does not flush out without rad removal.
Interval: At least once every 2y/50k mi.

I'm a new manual transmission driver, would you mind explaining what signs would point you towards changing the fluid sooner? Notchiness? Clunking when changing gears? I'd appreciate any advice - thanks in advance!

[dp1]

Originally Posted by aegisdrgn

I'm a new manual transmission driver, would you mind explaining what signs would point you towards changing the fluid sooner? Notchiness? Clunking when changing gears? I'd appreciate any advice - thanks in advance!

I'm not a mechanic and I never changed tranny fluid because of degraded performance but I noticed smoother gear engagement when I first switched to Motul Gear 300. I borrowed the words from @CSG Mike so hopefully he will chime in with more specifics.

Gear changes vary in feel (resistance) for specific gears and things move under extreme breaking forces (BBK and chirping slicks). The more you practice (shifting smoother then faster then heel-and-toe), the more you will notice differences. Fresh fluids are cheap insurance and I change mine often.

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by aegisdrgn

I'm a new manual transmission driver, would you mind explaining what signs would point you towards changing the fluid sooner? Notchiness? Clunking when changing gears? I'd appreciate any advice - thanks in advance!

You won't really "feel" it until you get some more experience, but try changing your factory fill with Motul Gear 300. You should immediately notice a difference in how the transmission feels.

Now, over time, the feel will degrade, but because it's gradual, you won't notice it. The next time you change the fluid, you'll notice if "feels better" again, even though you used the same fluid! This is an indicator that the fluid you took out, was degraded.

Eventually, with experience, you'll learn to recognize the signs of aged fluid.

[aegisdrgn]

Originally Posted by CSG Mike

You won't really "feel" it until you get some more experience, but try changing your factory fill with Motul Gear 300. You should immediately notice a difference in how the transmission feels.

Now, over time, the feel will degrade, but because it's gradual, you won't notice it. The next time you change the fluid, you'll notice if "feels better" again, even though you used the same fluid! This is an indicator that the fluid you took out, was degraded.

Eventually, with experience, you'll learn to recognize the signs of aged fluid.

Thanks Mike!

I changed the fluid out at around 1000 miles (6k now) and I did notice an immediate improvement in smoothness with Motul 300. It felt more "cushioned" and went from gear to gear like a light switch. But in the past couple months when I shift from 1-2 and 2-3 I get clanking / clunking. I haven't tracked, just one 86 DDA day with Moto, so I guess I picked up some bad shifting habits.

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by aegisdrgn

Thanks Mike!

I changed the fluid out at around 1000 miles (6k now) and I did notice an immediate improvement in smoothness with Motul 300. It felt more "cushioned" and went from gear to gear like a light switch. But in the past couple months when I shift from 1-2 and 2-3 I get clanking / clunking. I haven't tracked, just one 86 DDA day with Moto, so I guess I picked up some bad shifting habits.

Try changing it again, to see if it goes away.

[aegisdrgn]

Originally Posted by CSG Mike

Try changing it again, to see if it goes away.

Will do!

[dp1]

Exciting times at EFI Logics (http://www.efilogics.com/) next week:
- Replace Jackson Racing c30 supercharger kit with c38 (will put up c30 kit for sale separately, buyer can have it installed by EFI Logics)
- Cut hood and install CSG Trackspec louvers (http://counterspacegarage.com/tracks...-frs-gt86.html)
- Install new oil pressure sensor + New block8head.com single pod + Stack 100psi oil pressure gauge
- Full engine/tranny/diff/brake fluid flush
- Full pre-track inspection

Thanks @CSG David and @CSG Mike for supplying c38 and louvers and pointers on the Stack gauge

...five weeks left until the first track event...signed up for 22 track days in 2016 and covered by ontrackinsurance.

[dp1]

Picked up the car at EFI Logics, once again great work

C38 is responsive, drives very similar to C30. The tune by @DeliciousTuning works great. I can see a lot of heat coming up when the car is still or barely moving, will test everything on track in a few weeks. Great recommendations by CSG.

[dp1]

Fun toy (Scion FR-S) and the daily (Scion iA)

[dp1]

I spy...

[dp1]

Good times with good people at NASANE HPDE track event May 14-15 at Pocono Raceway, SE course option 3. Weather ranged from 41F - 73F and rain, tiny hail, no wind, lots of wind, sunny and a snow squall (after I had left on day 2). Both sets of tires (Nitto NT01 and Michelin PSS) got a nice workout.

(point-bys and passing that shows other cars), and

(two clean laps, one with nitto nt01 in warmer temps - includes commentary - and other with michelin pss in cooler temps)