Got a track related question? I'll try to answer.

[endless_pain]

Originally Posted by CSG Mike

Are these your questions?

Rear strut brace and front strut brace are functional (minimally).

Bushings REALLY depend on your own personal tolerance for noise, clunking, and maintenance. How much experience do you have with spherical bushings? Do you live in an area that sees salt/rain?

Yep, those were my questions.
Any opinion on the Under braces? Cusco seems to have one for every hole they could bolt one to.
I have a high tolerance for noise, clunking, and maintenance. Is understandable that to make the car "better" I have to live with the inherent discomfort of certain parts. Some people were not recommending the Beatrush rear diff brace for daily drivers, but I enjoy mine and haven't noticed any increase in NHV.
Have experience with spherical bushings. Had some of them on my Civic on the trailing arm, rear LCA and front upper and lower control arms, but it was a car that never saw rain (no wipers) much less snow and I could have driven it everyday if I could, and it was noisy and shaky. But if the difference between spericals and durometer/urethane in this specific car are negligible, I would prefer to stick with the latter.

Thanks

[dradernh]

Originally Posted by AZP Installs

I would also have to check with the NJ State regs. They have some very weird safety laws regarding race tracks here. (like the state police can give tickets in the paddock and they also check belt dates and what not of race cars and can issue tickets to race cars)

-Mike Paisan

See: http://www.njsp.org/divorg/operation...egulations.pdf - 47 pages of state regulations applicable to race tracks, and enforced at the discretion of the state police.

[AZP Installs]

Originally Posted by CSG Mike

They're allowed to give tickets on private property? Or, are all the NJ tracks owned by the government (e.g. Laguna Seca)?

The state of NJ makes deals with all the tracks where they give the NJSP the rights to administer the NJ Motorsports Laws on their property in order for the operators of the tracks to get the proper permits.

Basically they make an agreement so that the state can administer vehicle and motorsports laws on the property. The belt laws for NJ Race cars are actually more stringent in terms of time they are valid than what the regs are for all organizations. We've seen the NJSP pull race cars due to out of date belts, even though the belts were in compliance with the sanctioning body.

Totally weird stuff.

-mike

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by DatApex

Average to moderate experience. Previous cars I've raced: 97 240sx, 91 Miata, 08 speed3. Roughly 50 or so combined autox/hpde events over the past 5 years.

I'm very inexperienced with suspension tuning in general (raced 2 of those 3 just stock form). I have a decent understanding of the basics of what does what, but not much on how it all works together. Looking for a good starting place to make adjustments from to suit my driving style. But, definitely prefer pushy to loose.

Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk

Start with -3.0, -2.0, zero toe front, 1/16" total toe-in rear. Adjust toe based on how the car feels to you, and camber via pyrometer.

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by endless_pain

Yep, those were my questions.
Any opinion on the Under braces? Cusco seems to have one for every hole they could bolt one to.
I have a high tolerance for noise, clunking, and maintenance. Is understandable that to make the car "better" I have to live with the inherent discomfort of certain parts. Some people were not recommending the Beatrush rear diff brace for daily drivers, but I enjoy mine and haven't noticed any increase in NHV.
Have experience with spherical bushings. Had some of them on my Civic on the trailing arm, rear LCA and front upper and lower control arms, but it was a car that never saw rain (no wipers) much less snow and I could have driven it everyday if I could, and it was noisy and shaky. But if the difference between spericals and durometer/urethane in this specific car are negligible, I would prefer to stick with the latter.

Thanks

They're all functional, but they're not meant to be carpet bombed onto cars, as so many people do. You pick and choose the braces you need, based on what behavior you want to change.

I haven't driven a FRS/BRZ with all poly bushings, yet, only spherical or stock.

[DatApex]

Originally Posted by CSG Mike

Start with -3.0, -2.0, zero toe front, 1/16" total toe-in rear. Adjust toe based on how the car feels to you, and camber via pyrometer.

Probably silly question, but just to make sure I have it right, that's -3.0 in the front, -2.0 in the rear?

[dp1]

Originally Posted by DatApex

Probably silly question, but just to make sure I have it right, that's -3.0 in the front, -2.0 in the rear?

Yes

[gramicci101]

Originally Posted by CSG Mike

I haven't driven a FRS/BRZ with all poly bushings, yet, only spherical or stock.

It seems like everyone only does drivetrain bushings (engine/trans/diff mounts) and then specific suspension bushings like Whiteline's camber and caster kits. I know energy suspension has a kit for ~$50 that replaces all the front suspension bushings with polyurethane, and one for the rear for about $100. That's not a lot of money, so it's very tempting. I've heard energy suspension isn't as high as durometer as Whiteline, but it's still higher than OEM. I'm a little daunted by the amount of work involved and my ability to do it all in my garage in a timely manner though.

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by DatApex

Probably silly question, but just to make sure I have it right, that's -3.0 in the front, -2.0 in the rear?

Yes. You'll probably end up adding more, camber per pyrometer readings, since you're running a 245 on 8". I'd recommend 225 square.

Adjust toe to suit your taste; I personally run 0 all around, as do a lot of locals.

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by gramicci101

It seems like everyone only does drivetrain bushings (engine/trans/diff mounts) and then specific suspension bushings like Whiteline's camber and caster kits. I know energy suspension has a kit for ~$50 that replaces all the front suspension bushings with polyurethane, and one for the rear for about $100. That's not a lot of money, so it's very tempting. I've heard energy suspension isn't as high as durometer as Whiteline, but it's still higher than OEM. I'm a little daunted by the amount of work involved and my ability to do it all in my garage in a timely manner though.

It's a TON of work.

I'd recommend leaving everything alone until we have some more data from those that commit to doing bushings regardless.

[DatApex]

Originally Posted by CSG Mike

Yes. You'll probably end up adding more, camber per pyrometer readings, since you're running a 245 on 8". I'd recommend 225 square.

Adjust toe to suit your taste; I personally run 0 all around, as do a lot of locals.

Yeah, it's interesting the cars are faster on the skinnier tires. I bought these waaaaayyyy early on (had one of the first 20 BRZ's in the country) before people had them on track much. My next set of tires will likely be 225s.

Also, I guess I don't quite understand as much as I thought, but what kind of tire temps should I be aiming for? And what would you recommend for hot tire pressure on the RE-11As?

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by DatApex

Yeah, it's interesting the cars are faster on the skinnier tires. I bought these waaaaayyyy early on (had one of the first 20 BRZ's in the country) before people had them on track much. My next set of tires will likely be 225s.

Also, I guess I don't quite understand as much as I thought, but what kind of tire temps should I be aiming for? And what would you recommend for hot tire pressure on the RE-11As?

The actual temps will go up as you drive, the goal is to make the spread of temperatures as small as possible.

Outer edge higher = need more camber. Inner edge higher = need less camber

Center too high = lower pressure. Center too low = lower pressure

Inner higher than outer and center = need less toe (if you can manage it)

38 hot is a good guide; adjust to taste and by temp

[ATL BRZ]

Originally Posted by kavanagh

I'm not sure how long these harnesses have been out, but they are street legal, and FIA homologized. I understand and appreciate your experience @AZP Installs but would you consider these harnesses unsafe if combined with a harness bar such as this one from Cipher Auto in a car without a cage?

The harnesses have the anti submarine feature sewn into the inboard shoulder strap, which is why I am curious to know your opinion on these without a full cage. I agree that any 4, 5, or 6 point harness that does not allow for the body to flex in the event of a rollover is bad without a cage, but have you seen these particular ones before?

The harness bar bolts to the stock shoulder belt point and also the rear seat lap belt outboard bolts.

Originally Posted by SirBrass

The reason I'd go with a 4pt asm DOT-legal harness over the factory 3pt belt is not for safety (b/c the two would be equally safe when set up right), but for staying more securely in the seat during maneuvers. A factory belt is there for safety primarily, whereas a street harness has 2 primary functions: safety and stability.

And some have found the CG lock to be too tall when used in the BRZ b/c of the height of the buckle receptical + cg lock on the buckle raises the belt too high above the waist to be effective.

@smbstyle and I are both running what safety gear experts (Discovery Parts and HMS Motorsports) believe to be a safe harness setup with the stock seats.

Agency Power bolt-in harness bar


Schroth Profi II ASM FE 4 point harnesses with street legal push release, installed to the factory belt mounting points with proper hardware and clip in lap belts for easy maneuvering and removal.


Using a HANS device as well (anchors were installed on my helmet after that pic was taken so the tethers are now secured.)


I just tracked my BRZ all day today with this new setup and it felt great. Very secure in the seat now, to the point where my driving has improved because I have more feedback through the seat into my body as one unit. I'm comfortable with the added safety on track and both organizing bodies I run with (PCA and Hooked on Driving) have no issues or rules against my setup.

[SirBrass]

How do you shut off the annoying beeping of the seat belt alarm when using the harness?

On phone I am. Therefore, if mistakes I make, Frank Oz blame you should.