*** Aggressive wheels? Post them up! *** Thread

[nab335]

Originally Posted by lp87

somebody should do this:
http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=59200


Think it would look good on a stanced car

hell no haha. well, to each his own but I personally don't understand that look. looks naked or something

[blags]

[Crazy Drew]

For those of y'all with adjustable rear arms, other than price is there any reason for going with an adjustable lower rather than an adjustable upper rear control arm? Looking at a set of wheels that are on the verge of needing a pull in the rear and I think I can work it if I get an adjustable rear upper arm so I don't lose distance with camber.

I just hate the fact that I'll push the rear hubs out with an adjustable lower arm thus losing fender clearance and needing a bigger pull.

[SLICVIC]

Originally Posted by Crazy Drew

For those of y'all with adjustable rear arms, other than price is there any reason for going with an adjustable lower rather than an adjustable upper rear control arm? Looking at a set of wheels that are on the verge of needing a pull in the rear and I think I can work it if I get an adjustable rear upper arm so I don't lose distance with camber.

I just hate the fact that I'll push the rear hubs out with an adjustable lower arm thus losing fender clearance and needing a bigger pull.

@crazy_drew for fitment reasons, upper arms are the way to go IMO. Lower arms dont actually push the hub out like they would on mcpherson strut type suspension , extending lower arms will give you fender clearance, but requires a bit to get any good clearance. For instance, the upper arm will give you X amount of clearance at -5ish degrees of camber , while to get that same X amount of clearance with lower arms you will need say -10ish degrees of camber. (of course the camber numbers may be off but you get the point.) Also with lower arms, if you plan on dialing in any more than -5 degrees, you most likely will need adjustable toe links to correct the toe to zero.

I have both uppers and lowers, along with toelinks- if you have any more trouble shoot me a PM

[Hachiroku14]

+1

[WolfsFang]

Originally Posted by SLICVIC

@crazy_drew for fitment reasons, upper arms are the way to go IMO. Lower arms dont actually push the hub out like they would on mcpherson strut type suspension , extending lower arms will give you fender clearance, but requires a bit to get any good clearance. For instance, the upper arm will give you X amount of clearance at -5ish degrees of camber , while to get that same X amount of clearance with lower arms you will need say -10ish degrees of camber. (of course the camber numbers may be off but you get the point.) Also with lower arms, if you plan on dialing in any more than -5 degrees, you most likely will need adjustable toe links to correct the toe to zero.

I have both uppers and lowers, along with toelinks- if you have any more trouble shoot me a PM

learn something new everyday and im not even in class yet.

[whitefrs]

Originally Posted by whitefrs

Currently i got

18x9 et38 with 225/40

18x10 et38 with 245/35

I'm thinking about adding some spacers and camber out the front a lil bit and add some spacers to the back as well and add LCA to camber as well

what do you guys recommend??

Meanwhile no one cares about my question

[nab335]

Originally Posted by whitefrs

Meanwhile no one cares about my question

lol, i think what you are planning is perfect. LCAS with some spacers will give your wheels a nice fit

[whitefrs]

Originally Posted by nab335

lol, i think what you are planning is perfect. LCAS with some spacers will give your wheels a nice fit

thanks FINALLY SOMEONE lmao

what spacers tho. I'm thinking 5 all around but idk lol

[nab335]

Originally Posted by whitefrs

thanks FINALLY SOMEONE lmao

what spacers tho. I'm thinking 5 all around but idk lol

with that offset i think you can run 10-15mm with 5 degrees of camber. You have 45 profile tires though so i'm not too sure. 10mm would probably be safe without a fender roll

[whitefrs]

Originally Posted by nab335

with that offset i think you can run 10-15mm with 5 degrees of camber. You have 45 profile tires though so i'm not too sure. 10mm would probably be safe without a fender roll

Im trying to fit 265s as well lol

Fenders are rolled


I love boost!!!!!!

[nab335]

Originally Posted by whitefrs

Im trying to fit 265s as well lol

Fenders are rolled


I love boost!!!!!!

Lol I have no idea then man. I'm running 225s on a 10.5 but I'm not boosted or anything so I didn't have to worry about sacrifices

[Crazy Drew]

Originally Posted by SLICVIC

@crazy_drew for fitment reasons, upper arms are the way to go IMO. Lower arms dont actually push the hub out like they would on mcpherson strut type suspension , extending lower arms will give you fender clearance, but requires a bit to get any good clearance. For instance, the upper arm will give you X amount of clearance at -5ish degrees of camber , while to get that same X amount of clearance with lower arms you will need say -10ish degrees of camber. (of course the camber numbers may be off but you get the point.) Also with lower arms, if you plan on dialing in any more than -5 degrees, you most likely will need adjustable toe links to correct the toe to zero.

I have both uppers and lowers, along with toelinks- if you have any more trouble shoot me a PM

Thanks Vic. I figured it was something like that. The "pushing the hub" out may not have been entirely correct however you confirmed my theory with the difference in required adjustment for the same camber angle. I daily my car 60 miles each way so I'm not looking for more than a couple degrees to get things to clear.

The wheels I wanted anyways sold earlier today so no Leon Hardiritts for me... womp womp womp. Rotiform Nue's on the way.

[nab335]

I miss the accuair style fitment