General question: how do you justify installing parts that may not be reversible?

[SmoothIsSlow]

Hi all!

I bought my 2018 BRZ w/ PP with the intention of letting it be my daily driver/track car. I have done 5 events so far. Mods so far are GT Radial Champiro SX2s, Enkeki VR5 wheels, ATE Typ200 brake fluids, PFC 01/11 pads (new XP10s sitting on the shelf too), SPC camber bolts in the front.

Thinking about ARP extended studs so I can feel good about changing wheels all the time + be able to play with spacers. Also thinking about getting an oil cooler since I am super paranoid and always change oil after a track day or two (running 5w30 in 60 ~ 80F weather).

The studs and oil cooler aren't super crazy, but also not trivial to hide/undo if I ever decide to sell the car.

How do you approach this problem of balancing modding the car to be a reliable track car v.s. not having it be so crazy that you would lose all the money sunk into it?

[8RZ]

Modding cars is not an investment, you will lose money in the long run.


It's a labor of love and passion, enjoy the ride.

[Dadhawk]

Originally Posted by SmoothIsSlow

How do you approach this problem of balancing modding the car to be a reliable track car v.s. not having it be so crazy that you would lose all the money sunk into it?

My solution to this is easy, but doesn't work for everyone. I keep the car long enough that it doesn't matter what I've done to it, there is no real value left in it other than whatever the scrapyard would give me.

For those that want to eventually sell the car and recoup some money, you have to decide how much the "average" buyer would devalue the car because of the mod, and if you are willing to live with that loss. Mods of any type add almost zero value to a used car for the normal car buyer. They look up the KBB value for the car, private sale, and expect to get 10% off from there.

[SmoothIsSlow]

@Dadhawk

I am perfectly fine with the mods not adding any value onto the car. I am more troubled by the notion of the mods taking value out of the car.

[strat61caster]

If you don't find value in modifying the car then why modify it?

Don't get hung up on how others value your possessions and decisions, these are toys not investments, live your life.

Both of those things are reversible btw.

[JD001]

It's my car therefore I do what I want. The mods are for my pleasure and when it comes to selling, I'm sure a like minded person will come along to buy a nicely modded car..

[14stu]

Wheel studs are a wear item if you're doing enough events, and I cannot imagine that they'd lower the value of your car. Even if they did, don't sweat it. Every minute and mile you have your car it's losing value, that's just the nature of a depreciating asset. Enjoy it.

[spike021]

Depends on your plans with the car.

For me I plan on having mine as long as I possibly can since it's my first. I won't necessarily have it forever, but I'm not owning it with clear intent to sell after X years either.

Only thing I'm worried about is having to uninstall/reinstall everything for smog tests but that's still 5 or so years down the road anyway.

[ZDan]

Originally Posted by SmoothIsSlow

Thinking about ARP extended studs so I can feel good about changing wheels all the time + be able to play with spacers.

I went with the non-extended, standard length ARP studs and use closed-end lug nuts. Depending on how much spacer you want to try, you might be fine with the non-extended... As stated in the other thread, IMO 6 full turns bare minimum is fine with known good studs (ARP, MSI and the like).

Also thinking about getting an oil cooler since I am super paranoid and always change oil after a track day or two (running 5w30 in 60 ~ 80F weather).

IMO oil cooler is not needed for "casual" track usage. My oil temps get up to 272F indicated at the track, but I'm only out for ~15 minutes at a time and I change it frequently (~every 4 track days). I also run 5w30, full synth of course.

IMO, for many of us doing HPDEs the risks associated with running an oil cooler may outweigh the risks of NOT running one...

[SmoothIsSlow]

Originally Posted by ZDan

I went with the non-extended, standard length ARP studs and use closed-end lug nuts. Depending on how much spacer you want to try, you might be fine with the non-extended... As stated in the other thread, IMO 6 full turns bare minimum is fine with known good studs (ARP, MSI and the like).

IMO oil cooler is not needed for "casual" track usage. My oil temps get up to 272F indicated at the track, but I'm only out for ~15 minutes at a time and I change it frequently (~every 4 track days). I also run 5w30, full synth of course.

IMO, for many of us doing HPDEs the risks associated with running an oil cooler may outweigh the risks of NOT running one...

Re: the OC, that's an interesting perspective to hear. Those are also the temperatures I am seeing. My sessions tend to be 20 minutes and I have gotten to a point where I don't hesitate to shift at red line even at 270F.

[mistople]

An oil cooler is easily reversible in a handful of hours.

Chopping up your hood for some vents or doing a K swap is a very different conversation

[m86]

Originally Posted by ZDan

I went with the non-extended, standard length ARP studs and use closed-end lug nuts. Depending on how much spacer you want to try, you might be fine with the non-extended... As stated in the other thread, IMO 6 full turns bare minimum is fine with known good studs (ARP, MSI and the like).

IMO oil cooler is not needed for "casual" track usage. My oil temps get up to 272F indicated at the track, but I'm only out for ~15 minutes at a time and I change it frequently (~every 4 track days). I also run 5w30, full synth of course.

IMO, for many of us doing HPDEs the risks associated with running an oil cooler may outweigh the risks of NOT running one...

For cars that are still under the powertrain warranty (60 months / 60k miles), I wonder if having an oil cooler could potentially make it harder to claim it (dealers could argue that the oil cooler created a leak, lowered the pressure, etc).

[VTEC]

Tires, brake pads, brake fluid, are all important mods for a track rat, but to an average buyer it's just a wear and tear maintenance item. Shouldn't really have any impact. Basic bolt on exhaust and suspension parts also aren't too hard to reverse back to stock. The only thing that would really sink your costs is forced induction or engine swap. Those are not so easy to revert to stock. For me personally with my budget, that's where I draw the line

[Dadhawk]

Originally Posted by SmoothIsSlow

@Dadhawk

I am perfectly fine with the mods not adding any value onto the car. I am more troubled by the notion of the mods taking value out of the car.

For some buyers, they probably will. You have to be willing to take the time to finding "that buyer" that it doesn't impact.