P0341 code in my FA24 swap

[blsfrs]

Can I you to fly out to Virginia and test my car?

[Ultramaroon]

If you're patient enough to get four pins connected without touching each other, and you're down for back and forth for a week or so, I bet I could walk you through all the rest. At worst, you're out fifty bucks.

[blsfrs]

The blue line makes sense to me. The blips are the notches. What is the yellow line reading? I told you I was a nube.

Is there any way to get ecutek data logging to give me oscilloscope function?

Also, I ordered an ecu from LKQ on Ebay. They sent me a DI driver even though their description clearly stated the module was under the dash. To their credit, they immediately refunded the full amount. I'm still looking for an ecu just so I can rule it out as the problem.

[Ultramaroon]

Originally Posted by blsfrs

The blue line makes sense to me. The blips are the notches. What is the yellow line reading? I told you I was a nube.

No problem! The yellow trace (channel-1) is the crankshaft position signal. Going back to the Subaru TSB, the high-to-low transition (falling edge) is the important part of the camshaft signal. They use the crankshaft signal for reference.


edit: CAN data is of no help here. We are monitoring raw signal (analog) from the sensors exactly as they are seen by the ECU.

If we see good signal going into the ECU, that input channel of the ECU must be at fault.

If we see bad signal, we go down the shim-swapping road.

If we see no signal, something is wrong with the wiring. I'd suspect the connector between main and engine harnesses. I say this only because the fault code remained the same after you swapped sensors. That was a good test.

[jflogerzi]

Originally Posted by blsfrs

The blue line makes sense to me. The blips are the notches. What is the yellow line reading? I told you I was a nube.

Is there any way to get ecutek data logging to give me oscilloscope function?

Also, I ordered an ecu from LKQ on Ebay. They sent me a DI driver even though their description clearly stated the module was under the dash. To their credit, they immediately refunded the full amount. I'm still looking for an ecu just so I can rule it out as the problem.

Link has a new plug and play module.... for our cars and its what ASM recomends. 2K

[bcj]

Trainspotting vibes.
(don't lend O'scope money)

[Ultramaroon]

Sadly, I think I have frightened off any takers. I promise that it looks way more intimidating than it actually is.

edit: With the WiFi connection, one could be monitoring in real time while fiddling with the sensor as the engine idles.

[autoracer86]

Originally Posted by jflogerzi

Link has a new plug and play module.... for our cars and its what ASM recomends. 2K

I could be mistaken but I thought it was for the fa20. I assumed it wouldn't work for the fa24.

[bcj]

I was only riffing on all the spikes.

Solid breadboarding skills demonstrated and why they should be encouraged.

When I saw this one, it initially looked like you were shoving the pins through the insulation.

[jflogerzi]

Originally Posted by autoracer86

I could be mistaken but I thought it was for the fa20. I assumed it wouldn't work for the fa24.

snice ASM is recommending using it with there hybrid FA20/FA24 builds it should... Guessing it needs FA20 engine harness on the gen 1 vs the new Gen 2s

[Ultramaroon]

Originally Posted by bcj

it initially looked like you were shoving the pins through the insulation.

Ah, yes. I'm not above that as a last resort, and even then, only with interior wires.

Hell, I was conflicted about messing with the virgin connectors for the demo. "If it ain't broke..."

[Tatsu333]

Originally Posted by jflogerzi

Link has a new plug and play module.... for our cars and its what ASM recomends. 2K

Originally Posted by autoracer86

I could be mistaken but I thought it was for the fa20. I assumed it wouldn't work for the fa24.

Originally Posted by jflogerzi

snice ASM is recommending using it with there hybrid FA20/FA24 builds it should... Guessing it needs FA20 engine harness on the gen 1 vs the new Gen 2s

An important note from Link's product website for the new Link ECU for those with 2017+ FA20's (or looking to connect directly to an FA24, since I believe they use the same type of crank sensor and DI Fuel Pressure sensor as the 2017+):

"Note: 2017+ Models have some differences to earlier cars and will not run with the sample maps supplied in PCLink and the standard plug-in ecu hardware.

• 2017+ Engines have a Hall Effect Crank Sensor instead of Reluctor and so require the Trigger 1 Type changed from 'Reluctor' to 'Optical/Hall' and the Trigger 1 Pull-up set to ON.
• 2017+ Engines have a different DI Fuel Pressure sensor than earlier models, this sensor has 4 pins instead of 3 and requires an 8.2kohm pullup resistor to be wired between C7 (An Volt 4) and 5v, the DI Fuel Pressure Source changed from An Volt 3 to An Volt 4 and the pressure calibration changed to 4119.6kPa at 3.62V and 9790.6kPa at 2.94V."