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09-16-2024, 06:10 PM | #15 |
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Can I you to fly out to Virginia and test my car?
Last edited by blsfrs; 09-16-2024 at 09:19 PM. |
The Following User Says Thank You to blsfrs For This Useful Post: | Ultramaroon (09-17-2024) |
09-17-2024, 01:09 AM | #16 |
extra what?
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If you're patient enough to get four pins connected without touching each other, and you're down for back and forth for a week or so, I bet I could walk you through all the rest. At worst, you're out fifty bucks.
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09-17-2024, 01:33 PM | #17 |
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The blue line makes sense to me. The blips are the notches. What is the yellow line reading? I told you I was a nube.
Is there any way to get ecutek data logging to give me oscilloscope function? Also, I ordered an ecu from LKQ on Ebay. They sent me a DI driver even though their description clearly stated the module was under the dash. To their credit, they immediately refunded the full amount. I'm still looking for an ecu just so I can rule it out as the problem. Last edited by blsfrs; 09-17-2024 at 01:47 PM. |
09-17-2024, 01:40 PM | #18 | |
extra what?
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Quote:
edit: CAN data is of no help here. We are monitoring raw signal (analog) from the sensors exactly as they are seen by the ECU. If we see good signal going into the ECU, that input channel of the ECU must be at fault. If we see bad signal, we go down the shim-swapping road. If we see no signal, something is wrong with the wiring. I'd suspect the connector between main and engine harnesses. I say this only because the fault code remained the same after you swapped sensors. That was a good test.
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Last edited by Ultramaroon; 09-17-2024 at 10:58 PM. |
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