Edelbrock E-force Owner's thread and FAQs (Frequently Asked Questions)

[dpfarr]

It’s been several years since I installed the blower. To remove it, in order to get at the starter to do my clutch; what’s the easiest way to get it out of the way? I’m going to go pull up the manual, but if you’re faster than me in this heat. Please don’t hesitate to help a dummy.

I had to go inside because of the heat. Didn’t drain the coolant from the blower. Can the unit be moved forward to access the starter or might as well drain and just remove the whole thing?

[bigB]

When I did my clutch earlier this year, I slapped together an apparatus similar to something that someone here showed that they bought from harbor freight, and used it with some straps to lift up the sc without disconnecting everything. But I had a hell of a time with the two electrical connectors at the top of the bell housing, trying to reach back there underneath the suspended sc. When I put it back together, I thought I got those connectors back together but no, I started getting neutral switch codes and my back up lights didn’t work. I ended up taking the sc off to get to those connectors. So I would recommend just taking it off.

With this issue and the two bypass actuator problems I have had, i am getting pretty good at taking that thing off.

[bigB]

Also, I didn’t drain the coolant, just disconnected the lines and wedged them facing up and out of the way. I didn’t loose too much coolant, and just topped it up after it was back together.

[dpfarr]

I appreciate it.

Man I hate when working on cars doesn’t work well. Like figuring out the lower coolant hose clamp. I don’t even have a memory of putting that on. Must’ve put it on before I bolted the sc down?

I was putting my car up last weekend to start but the jack stands were way too fucking high to use (wishful thinking). I noticed a spot of leakage in my garage, looks like it came from my diff. Hoping the drain is not 100% tight or something. Otherwise…

[B T]

Originally Posted by bigB

When I did my clutch earlier this year, I slapped together an apparatus similar to something that someone here showed that they bought from harbor freight, and used it with some straps to lift up the sc without disconnecting everything.

This is the same way I do it. only really had to lift the supercharger because of the stupid clutch cylinder placement. Did everything else from under the car, including reach around for the electrical connectors.

[SOCON]

https://www.ft86club.com/forums/show...=136552&page=2 I have used this rig far more times than I ever thought would happen. Well worth the money.

[dpfarr]

I guess the plus side was looking at my bypass actuator. What’s the test to tell if it still has appropriate vacuum? Or there’s a mount pattern of old vs new?

Additionally, the coolant tubing has some rust. I had been running Subaru coolant in it the last couple years. I want to assume that’s not the usual? I’m going to clean it up before I put it back on but want to be extra proactive that this doesn’t continue to oxidize and cause worse issues.

[dpfarr]

I guess the plus side was looking at my bypass actuator. What’s the test to tell if it still has appropriate vacuum? Or there’s a mount pattern of old vs new?

Additionally, the coolant tubing has some rust. I had been running Subaru coolant in it the last couple years. I want to assume that’s not the usual? I’m going to clean it up before I put it back on but want to be extra proactive that this doesn’t continue to oxidize and cause worse issues.

[Brewster]

Originally Posted by CSG Mike

I love this.

What about water/meth injection?

Is anyone using water/methanol injection with the Edelbrock supercharger ?

Would it provide the equivalent Knock protection that 98 octane race fuel does ?

[Muskoka800]

Originally Posted by Brewster

Is anyone using water/methanol injection with the Edelbrock supercharger ?

Would it provide the equivalent Knock protection that 98 octane race fuel does ?

I have two available tunes, 94 and 91. I run 94 normally but sometimes when up north it isn’t available so I have the 91 tune back-up. I can toggle back and forth using the cruise control stalk. Zach at CSG does my Ecotek tuning.
No knocking ever whether on street or lapping. Zach will someday adjust my tunes to accommodate a 3” pulley upgrade and larger injectors.

[Brewster]

Originally Posted by Muskoka800

I have two available tunes, 94 and 91. I run 94 normally but sometimes when up north it isn’t available so I have the 91 tune back-up. I can toggle back and forth using the cruise control stalk. Zach at CSG does my Ecotek tuning.
No knocking ever whether on street or lapping. Zach will someday adjust my tunes to accommodate a 3” pulley upgrade and larger injectors.

Having multiple octane tunes selectable on the fly is a convenient feature of Ecuteck. I too have been tuned by Zach, for 91,94 and 98 octane.

My consideration of running water/methanol injection, as suggested by CSG Mike, would be an alternative to using Race Fuel. It would reduce the cost and transportation issues of Race Fuel.
Also, my good wife considers travelling with 2-3 5 gallons pails of Race Fuel in the trunk hazardous and prefers not to join me on those drives. Running water/meth injection would eliminate that issue and she could join me on more trips..... well, maybe I should re-think this topic

Popular consensus seems to indicate only using a smaller pulley with a "built" engine.

[Muskoka800]

Originally Posted by Brewster

Popular consensus seems to indicate only using a smaller pulley with a "built" engine.

As mine is. The Outfront Motorsports short-block has about 5000 kl. now.
The original #2 piston broke sending the rod through the top on the case.

[B T]

Originally Posted by Muskoka800

As mine is. The Outfront Motorsports short-block has about 5000 kl. now.
The original #2 piston broke sending the rod through the top on the case.

Slap a thick head gasket on it to lower static CR before getting a smaller pulley. I'm running 12.2:1 now and wish I'd gone just a bit thicker.

[Muskoka800]

Originally Posted by B T

Slap a thick head gasket on it to lower static CR before getting a smaller pulley. I'm running 12.2:1 now and wish I'd gone just a bit thicker.

Yes, I planned ahead and went one size thicker than OEM when I assembled it.