SCCA Solo C Street Discussion

[simpleisbest]

Tried stock, Hotchkis, Strano, and Tanabe. I like the Strano and Tanabe the best. The Tanabe seems a hair stiffer and installation without issues. I may go back to trying the Strano bar again, but am happy with the Tanabe set up for now. Not a fan of their bushings. If anyone was to use the Tanabe bar, I would recommend picking up a set of Whiteline 22mm bushings.

It is a matter of preference. My set up is very tossable and neutral. Minor oversteer or understeer can easily be created with shock tuning. Seems to work for our lots/courses. YMMV.

[FastWhite]

I find the same results with a 20mm adj. Super Pro. Very neutral.
The only time I found heavy pushing was on our wet test n tune on asphalt.
But that is me, and I ain't no expert.


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[itzmik3]

[ame]http://youtu.be/ToApoPpefsc[/ame]

Here is my run from this past weekend CSCC event.

My quickest lap was a 55.642, but still with a lot of things to clean up.
It was good enough for 1st in S2 and 9th overall in PAX

[TRev]

My two cents on sway bars is that the 20MM Whiteline is awesome and can be that way even with a street friendly alignment. I haven't had too many people drive my car but the ones who have had made comments similar to:

Originally Posted by Kido1986

I did pretty poor but the car was AWESOME. TRev's car is amazingly neutral and almost telepathic.

On day two at Nationals, unfortunately I made decent sized mistakes on all three of my runs...day one though I was the fastest twin. I also led day one at Spring Nats with the Whiteline bar and Konis. I just need to find a steering wheel gasket that can put in good times over two days.

I had an issue with the end link boots ripping on one of my Whiteline adjustable links. Whiteline sent me a new set, no questions asked and just asked that I return the old ones at my convenience so they could see why the boot ripped. Excellent customer service.

I have been considering going to STX and it is nice that I could at least try the bar on its stiffer setting. If I can make it work well, I don't have to buy another bar

Depending on driving style and car setup, you may not even need a bar. Lance ran without one on his FR-S and was very competitive. He favors a loose car though and can drive the piss out of it that way

[Rexpelagi]

Originally Posted by TRev

Depending on driving style and car setup, you may not even need a bar. Lance ran without one on his FR-S and was very competitive. He favors a loose car though and can drive the piss out of it that way

I've thought the same thing, even though I know that the Strano bar clearly works well. I was running RS-3's on stock shocks though, so that is much different than the Nationals setup that actually worked. I'll probably run the bar though and just get ZII's to replace the barely-used RS-3's. I will be running an unorthodox setup on my RX-8, so I should play it conservative with the BRZ.

[Biggins]

Originally Posted by Rexpelagi

I've thought the same thing, even though I know that the Strano bar clearly works well. I was running RS-3's on stock shocks though, so that is much different than the Nationals setup that actually worked. I'll probably run the bar though and just get ZII's to replace the barely-used RS-3's. I will be running an unorthodox setup on my RX-8, so I should play it conservative with the BRZ.

Can you let us know in which one you are faster? I think the RX-8 will benefit a LOT with the +/-1 allowance.

[7thgear]

is this a fair hiearchy of stock mods from most to least important?

tires
camber (alignment)
brakes
bar
shocks
wheels
exhaust

[jprice130]

I think your priority list is pretty darn good there. The only thing I might knock down a bit is the brakes. I think the stock brakes are pretty darn good and brake-fade is not an issue with AutoX unless it's ridiculously hot outside and you're hot-lapping with a co-driver on a long course.

[Wepeel]

Originally Posted by 7thgear

is this a fair hiearchy of stock mods from most to least important?

tires
camber (alignment)
brakes
bar
shocks
wheels
exhaust

I think bar and shocks are about even - for a BRZ, I would try shocks before the bar. FRS I'm not sure since it oversteers more, but I haven't driven a stock FRS. And brakes also I'd move both of those above brakes. Wheels and exhaust should be minimal.

[Sccabrz192]

I would rank as
Tires
Bar
Dampers
Wheels
Brakes
Exhaust
Intake filter

I left off alignment because that is an adjustment more than a modification.

I rank brakes very low because on a momentum car a pad with lots of initial bite can be counter productive... In this scenario a lesser pad could be better as long as it is consistent.


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[7thgear]

is the OEM pad lesser enough thought?

i ran the last two summers on the OEM pads and tires. This year i've finally got the scratch for tires and a bar (along with a full season's worth of entry fees) but debating whether i should go for that extra pad bite.

ive been doing autocross but never at a level where i'm shooting for top 5... which i want to do this year, but on the smallest budget possible.

[des]

If anything less "bite" is better (IMHO) as long as the car still stops well, because it allows you to weight the car's nose without upsetting the balance.

[Sccabrz192]

Originally Posted by 7thgear

is the OEM pad lesser enough thought?

i ran the last two summers on the OEM pads and tires. This year i've finally got the scratch for tires and a bar (along with a full season's worth of entry fees) but debating whether i should go for that extra pad bite.

ive been doing autocross but never at a level where i'm shooting for top 5... which i want to do this year, but on the smallest budget possible.

Aside from the exhaust and going with the enkei's over the kosei options, I think I've minimized my costs about as much as you can and still get to the maximum extent of the rules, unless I were to have gone and bought second hand parts... here would be my suggestion for a C-Street super-budget build to the extent of the rules:

BFG Rival 225/45/17
Strano FSB
Koni Dampers
OE Crash Bolts
Kosei K1TS/K4R wheels
Stoptech Street or EBC Yellow brake pads
Nameless or Berk muffler delete
K&N Drop-in filter

IMO you could easily stop after the crash bolts and the car could still be plenty competitive. The full monte is in the neighborhood of $3,300 to go from showroom to C-Street ready. could easily vary from $3,000 to 4,300 depending on what you choose for wheels, exhaust, brakes, and if you get a Swaybat with or without aftermarket end links.

[7thgear]

now that the Bilstein HDs are out (B6), would you consider those over Koni?