Change your manual transmission fluid ASAP!!!

[DSlayerZX]

Originally Posted by 996garage

Anyone else have problems with slight gear grinding when Downshifting from 2nd to 1st gear?


For example when rolling less than 5mi/hr to a stop sign or to make a right turn, and you want to put it in 1st gear to be able to roll off quickly. About half the time I get some grinding when trying to do this. Doesn't seem to matter if it's hot or cold. Double clutching doesn't always prevent it either.


I've owned 8 different sports cars with manuals, and have never experienced this issue on any of them. Just wondering if I'm the only one?

I have the same problem as well, it feel like the stick is forcefully kicking back into neutral isn't it.

I am not entirely sure if that's grind. Since I literally can not shift into 1st at 20 miles per hour, it seems like something in the gear box is blocking it.

maybe it's a safety mechanism on this gear box?
or else I can't figure out how this gear box was ever made passed design inspection if 2nd and 1st just grinds like this.

[Deathalo]

Originally Posted by DSlayerZX

I have the same problem as well, it feel like the stick is forcefully kicking back into neutral isn't it.

I am not entirely sure if that's grind. Since I literally can not shift into 1st at 20 miles per hour, it seems like something in the gear box is blocking it.

maybe it's a safety mechanism on this gear box?
or else I can't figure out how this gear box was ever made passed design inspection if 2nd and 1st just grinds like this.

Why the hell are you trying to downshift to 1st at 20 MPH!?

[DSlayerZX]

Originally Posted by Deathalo

Why the hell are you trying to downshift to 1st at 20 MPH!?

because I often coming to a full stop at a right turn on red stop light with no car in either intersection.
Most people will roll through... but the cops here wants to see your car stopped or it's ticket time.... Orz

so... while breaking.... switching to first is the logical next step =_=

[Deathalo]

Originally Posted by DSlayerZX

because I often coming to a full stop at a right turn on red stop light with no car in either intersection.
Most people will roll through... but the cops here wants to see your car stopped or it's ticket time.... Orz

so... while breaking.... switching to first is the logical next step =_=

Right... but I do that at about 4-5 MPH, maybe a quick tap on the accelerator to double clutch and sometimes just quickly in when at a dead stop, but I NEVER try and shift into 1st over 15 MPH probably not even over 10, there's just no need. Even double clutching at that speed into first has never worked for me in any car, not unless you're jamming the thing in like you hate it.

[Sellout]

That happens intentionally. The box locks you out until the synchro has had time to speed up the input shaft and clutch disk when you're downshifting. Hold it there and you can hear things speed up, then it will drop into first...

That's the same mechanism that locks us out of second when the transmission is cold.

[DSlayerZX]

Originally Posted by Deathalo

Right... but I do that at about 4-5 MPH, maybe a quick tap on the accelerator to double clutch and sometimes just quickly in when at a dead stop, but I NEVER try and shift into 1st over 15 MPH probably not even over 10, there's just no need. Even double clutching at that speed into first has never worked for me in any car, not unless you're jamming the thing in like you hate it.

dunno... i just got used to break till full stop, while switching to first gear with clutch fully disengaged, then accelerate immediately once i felt my car has jolted back wards from full stop..

off course is not needed... but it's just what I have been gotten used to, and now I can't lol

[Deathalo]

Originally Posted by DSlayerZX

dunno... i just got used to break till full stop, while switching to first gear with clutch fully disengaged, then accelerate immediately once i felt my car has jolted back wards from full stop..

off course is not needed... but it's just what I have been gotten used to, and now I can't lol

Time to re-learn, it's not really a good idea to coast in gear with your foot on the clutch, too much wear on the throw-out bearing. If you're coming up to a stop it's better to coast in gear as long as possible and coast the rest of the way in neutral. Then, if you end up doing a rolling stop you can either double clutch into 2nd or (though not recommended, but if you're rolling at like 3 MPH I can see why) 1st and take off. If you come to a complete stop that's plenty of time to pop it into first with little to no resistance besides your normal thunk.

Sorry

[Photonic]

Originally Posted by Extreme86

Didn't have any probs re-using transmission gaskets. But, the re-using the differential drain plug gasket...it leaked on me...gave it a bit more torque and slowed it down but, intend to replace it the next time around. IMO the differential drain plug gasket should be replaced each time. The fill gasket - not as critical.

Found the part # info below from some other posts:

Toyota Part #'s:
Differential fill plug gasket: SU00300122 @$2.30 each list price
Differential drain plug gasket: TOY1215710010 @$1.50 each
Transmission fill/drain plug gasket: SU00303626 @>$11 each??? WTF

Subaru Part #'s:
Differential fill plug gasket: 11126JB000
Differential drain plug gasket: 1215710010
Transmission fill/drain plug gasket: 17008AA050

Copper gaskets from O'Reilly's can be substituted for transmission gaskets they say. OIL-TITE! PN# 65275 11/16", M18

Note: Having purchased new Toyota parts...the differential drain and fill gaskets look to be identical in appearance.

Stupid question but when it comes to things like this I did not think anyone relied on the stock gaskets anymore? I always Use RTV RED silicone gasket on lubricant gaskets ... and wait a couple hours before a test drive ..and then at least 24 before assuming its all well and good and dried ...

but Im a nissan guy. We dont even use the stock gaskets, and the nissan techs who build cars for third party scrap them and just RTV it and allow proper curing time ...

Im guessing even though RTV is superior ..it still voids warranty? I havent fiddled with "new" cars before ..getting the BRZ soon with be my first experience ... and I t sounds like I will have a lot to tinker with ..ugh

[roddy]

Originally Posted by Sellout

Yes, Pentosin is 75w80 like Redline MTL.

Close...MTL is 70W80.

Originally Posted by Deathalo

Been doing more research and have seen some great reports on Pentosin in our gearbox, still a bit worried about it being so thin, but if people are reporting great use even in the high 90s then I might be inclined to switch to that. I also heard of people using a Redline cocktail of MTL and MT-90, but I imagine it wouldn't be too different from MT-85 and I heard Pentosin is just a better product.

That was me. IIRC I used 1 quart of MT-90 and the rest was MTL. That mix should be slightly thinner than MT-85. It feels almost as good as Pentosin. Almost. Would be a good alternative for those who can't get their hands on Pentosin MTF2. I have 3 liters of Pentosin here and plan to go back to it in the spring. I'm not sure if the U.S. spec cars are any different, but my Canadian maintenance schedule calls for a tranny fluid change every 32,000 KMs (20,000 miles). Not sure if people are aware of that.

[Deathalo]

Originally Posted by roddy

Close...MTL is 70W80.





That was me. IIRC I used 1 quart of MT-90 and the rest was MTL. That mix should be slightly thinner than MT-85. It feels almost as good as Pentosin. Almost. Would be a good alternative for those who can't get their hands on Pentosin MTF2. I have 3 liters of Pentosin here and plan to go back to it in the spring. I'm not sure if the U.S. spec cars are any different, but my Canadian maintenance schedule calls for a tranny fluid change every 32,000 KMs (20,000 miles). Not sure if people are aware of that.

Hmm might not be a bad idea, especially since it's cheaper than Pentosin, I may do 1 qt MTL and the rest MT-90, mainly because I see most people using Pentosin live farther North, NC can get a bit hot.. though this past year all bets were off with the mild summer and polar vortex... But the fact that putting Pentosin in would be at least $20 more that's another good reason for me to do a Redline cocktail or just MT-85... wish I could find viscosity ratings for an MTL MT-90 cocktail..

[Sellout]

Originally Posted by roddy

Close...MTL is 70W80.

Not according to the people who make it.

[Deathalo]

Originally Posted by Sellout

Not according to the people who make it.

I thought it was 70w-80 as well... [ame="http://www.amazon.com/Red-Line-50205-70W80-Oil/dp/B002INJ69I"]Amazon.com: Red Line 50205 MTL 70W80 GL-4 Gear Oil - 1 Gallon: Automotive[/ame]

[Deathalo]

Originally Posted by Sellout

Not according to the people who make it.

Guess you're right actually: http://www.redlineoil.com/product.aspx?pid=45&pcid=7

[ame="http://www.amazon.com/Red-Line-50204-Transmission-Transaxle/dp/B000CPCBEG/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1391710374&sr= 1-1&keywords=redline+mtl"]Red Line (50204) SAE 75W80 API GL-4 Manual Transmission and Transaxle Lubricant - 1 Quart : Amazon.com : Automotive[/ame]

I think I'll do the cocktail roddy was talking about and use 1qt MT-90 and the rest MTL, that way it's a bit better than 85 in the cold but should not be as thin as Pentosin or MTL in the summer, I don't live in Canada or anywhere close so that should be a pretty good mix, and not expensive.

Edit: actually according to this website we were all right: http://www.opieoils.co.uk/p-1019-red...5w-80-gl4.aspx
RL apparently changed MTL from 70w80 to 75w80, probably better for our trannys anyway.

[JS + BRZ]

How many qts do we need for both transmission and differential? 5 for transmission and 1 for differential?

About to order motul gear300 for them. Thanks.