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06-11-2015, 10:23 AM | #2563 |
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For just driving around? Use the pressure on the door.
Messing with pressures only really matters if you are going to be pushing the car hard, which will cause the pressures to rise dramatically. |
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06-11-2015, 10:43 AM | #2564 | |
driving smoother faster
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It depends on ambient temps, driving, tire (size, UTQG and sidewall stiffness), camber, suspension, road surface, etc...usually stock pressures down to 2-4 PSI less work well for street/spirited driving, unless you're driving hard (track) and gain a lot of pressure when you go from say 80F cold to 230F hot tire temps. +10F adds up to 1PSI. Many tires like 35-40 PSI hot pressures...check wear on tire edges and pressures when tires are hot and adjust as needed. |
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06-11-2015, 10:55 AM | #2565 | |
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You can always run higher pressures. If you're want better mileage on a highway trip, you can boost then anywhere from 30 psi to the manufacturer's rating (45-50 psi usually). You can find this on the sidewall or TireRack. Personally, I run my summer tires at higher pressures for highway trips, to put some wear on the center strip. AutoX tends to wear the shoulders more than the center... so the net result is uniform wear.
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06-11-2015, 12:02 PM | #2566 |
Just the tip
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I run 5lbs less in front compared to the rear. I get much better turn in and the rear gently comes around in the corner when at the track instead of dragging behind. I think I was doing about 23lbs in front and 28lbs in the rear cold and after the session was over it jumped up about 5-8psi when hot.
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06-11-2015, 02:00 PM | #2567 | |
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06-11-2015, 10:54 PM | #2568 |
I draiv de cah
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Hey, I figured I'd post here instead of making a new thread. I've had my 2014 BRZ for a year and a half now, still running stock wheels. Aftermarket exhaust and CAI, but other than that it's stock except for aesthetics. I decided I'd like to go ahead and upgrade the suspension and lower the car. Not too low, but enough to reduce the gap. I don't track it, and I don't really plan to. It's my daily.
My question is, what parts are necessary to keep from causing damage or making the car dangerous to drive? I bought some BC Racing BR Series coilovers, the standard 8kg/mm set. I've had a few different answers from my go-to advice people, but they don't own the car so I'd like some input if anyone can help. I've been told I need some lower control arms (looking at the Voodoo 13 set), and others have said I won't need them since I won't be super low. Do I need toe arms and/or trailing arms? What about front pieces, like front LCAs? I'd appreciate any help!
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06-11-2015, 11:55 PM | #2569 | |
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06-12-2015, 12:52 AM | #2570 | |
I draiv de cah
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Edit: The more I think about it, may not even go a full inch lol. I have mudflaps which extend down at least an inch so too low and those will scrape.
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2022SubaruBRZ/CrystalWhitePearl/Limited Last edited by kalamitykode; 06-12-2015 at 01:05 AM. |
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06-14-2015, 09:15 PM | #2571 |
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A question for the experts. I am looking to purchase Tarmac 2 coilovers a lot sooner than I had originally anticipated and I was wanting to really start the final round of homework; in other words, I need to figure out spring rates
What I do with my car: My car is a DD that is also used in local autocross competitions, I am building for the autocross side of things. Suspension info: Where I am currently: Bilstein B8 shocks with RCE Tarmac springs - front and rear RCE hollow sway bars - front and rear both on softer setting, considering stiffening the rear bar for a bit more oversteer. OEM wheels with Michelin Pilot Super Sport 225/45r17 What I am working towards with my build: RCE Tarmac 2 coilovers, spring rates TBD - front and rear RCE hollow sway bars, stiffness settings TBD - front and rear 17x9" wheels with TBD tires at 245/40r17 - front and rear for autocross OEM wheels with Michelin PSS 225/45r17 - front and rear for DD So I am mostly happy with the current setup, but the simplicity of it (not adjustable) has lost its allure as I have become a better autocrosser than I was when I first started dabbling with the suspension. Right now the suspension is very close to neutral, but I would like to have a bit more oversteer to better suit my autocross driving style, hence why I am considering stiffening the rear sway bar in my current setup (I believe that is the correct thing to do??). Of all the coilovers I have seen, combined with my experience so far with RCE products, I believe that the Tarmac 2 coilovers are the next step in my suspension. I like the adjustability of these coilovers for both compression and rebound, and it will allow me to better dial in my suspension than just playing with tire pressure. By default the Tarmac 2 coilovers come with 400lb spring rates all around; by contrast the Tarmac springs are 280lbs front and 290lbs rear if I remember correctly. If I am looking to keep to a similar suspension balance, would I want the same spring rates on the coilovers or would I want stiffer or maybe softer???? What I would like to avoid is having to replace my sway bars again; I like the ones I have currently. Thanks in advance!
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06-14-2015, 09:33 PM | #2572 | |
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Do upper camber plates up front. You don't mention alignment but changes there will also change grip and thus balance. Anything that changes grip will do that, and more up front will be less understeer. LCAs in the back to have proper control over camber. |
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06-14-2015, 10:21 PM | #2573 | |
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06-15-2015, 09:57 AM | #2574 |
Are you in STX and sticking with street tires?
- Andy |
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06-15-2015, 12:39 PM | #2575 |
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Just got back from getting my car aligned after I dropped it on H&R sport springs. Here's the sheet they printed out for me.
The front: I'll need to get camber bolts in order to the -1 camber you guys said was optimal, but I'm happy with the ~0 camber. Is there any negative to running 0 camber over -1 in the front? The rear: I don't think the 0.3 variance is anything concerned about, is it? Before: After: Thanks in advanced guys! |
06-15-2015, 04:00 PM | #2576 | |
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