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Old 07-28-2015, 11:53 PM   #57
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In like 95% of instances i'll start off below 1k and accelerate as needed after. If i'm launching the car i'll start at 3k

Car idles at like 750 for me.. not sure why u guys are having trouble with low starts. Plus I have a track pipe.. if i started first at 1500 every light or in traffic it would seem a bit ridiculous
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Old 07-29-2015, 12:55 AM   #58
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Mine's an automatic, so I guess I don't belong in this thread.
Dude, its ok. Us auto guys can switch over to manual mode and pretend that we belong in this thread!

Kinda like the awkward dude standing in the corner while at parties...
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Old 07-29-2015, 01:32 AM   #59
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I'm right in the same boat



This is great advise. These things are meant to be replaced just like any wear product on your car i.e brake pads. Even though these clutches have been trickier than most manual cars i've driven.
This is precisely why the clutch is tricky.
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Old 07-29-2015, 09:04 AM   #60
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The engine sounds like a can of bb balls being shaken up if you take off at 1000-1500 unless you ride the crap out of the clutch and baby it while you make 1 torque, Im surprised to see so many answers saying they take off that low. At least my engine absolutely hates if you give it gas while the clutch is fully engaged anywhere below 2500. I usually take off at around 2k since it's the RPMs that gives me the least slip time.
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Old 07-29-2015, 09:12 AM   #61
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Back on the topic, yep, the horse would start off pulling the wagon ..... but it was smoother if you gave the horse a slight tap on the hind quarters with the rains ......


humfrz
haha, awesome analogy.

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The engine sounds like a can of bb balls being shaken up if you take off at 1000-1500 unless you ride the crap out of the clutch and baby it while you make 1 torque, Im surprised to see so many answers saying they take off that low. At least my engine absolutely hates if you give it gas while the clutch is fully engaged anywhere below 2500. I usually take off at around 2k since it's the RPMs that gives me the least slip time.
I drive around in my parking lot at work in 2nd and I know people are saying man, that car sounds ragged.
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Old 08-01-2015, 04:57 PM   #62
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Originally Posted by OctaneFRS View Post
I was specifically referring to, from a dead stop. I think for me it's more of a sound/feel thing as I don't really watch the tach. Usually I'll listen to the engine and know that I won't lug it if I let the clutch all the way out. I did watch it today and it was up to 2k which is why I brought this question up.

OMG! Your MPG is great. I'm running 93 and I am struggling to keep it over 22. This is almost all city driving, probably 90/10 as my work is a very short commute. I'm also still in the break-in period so hopefully it gets better as I have been staying under 4k and have done just a bit of spirited driving. I usually shift between 2.5k and 3k under normal driving conditions.
I live in the sticks and commute 40 minutes to work. it's all city streets, but all long stretches without lights. Add to it going to work is almost all down hill and I've seen 38MPG.

I want to add a diffuser and aero kit to the undercarriage to increase that MPG
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Old 08-01-2015, 07:08 PM   #63
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I never paid attention till I read this thread. After "researching" it turns out I usually launch at 1500 RPMs.
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Old 08-01-2015, 07:58 PM   #64
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Originally Posted by tahdizzle View Post
WTF does octane have to do with MPG? lol
A fair amount, a modern vehicle tuned for a higher octane will reduce timing and therefore power on a lower octane fuel to prevent knock. If an engine is producing reduced power you will need to push the pedal harder and burn more gas to maintain your typical driving habits (merging on the freeway, cruising at 65).

(coincidentally this ties in with why turbo engines are now so popular, they are pseudo "high displacement" high power very thirsty motors when required such as merging and then when off the throttle they are small displacement gas sippers)

I've read and heard the correlation is that for every dollar you save filling up with low octane you loose about "a dollars worth of range" (i.e. you basically filled it up with ~$1 less of fuel from full of higher octane) so you cost of fuel/mile is the same with the cheaper fuel. I've never bothered to verify for myself so idk.

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After 40 years and driving probably 300+ different MT vehicles (military and my own) I can honestly say that without a doubt I have no clue what RPMs I start out at. I am driving a car not landing a jumbo jet on an instrument only approach. I just don't look nor care what the tach says and about 98% of what I drove didn't even have one. Some times I start at lower revs sometimes at higher, it all depends upon what I am doing at that point in time. I will soon be teaching my grandson to drive my car and the very first order of business will be to tape over the tach so he learns how to hear and feel the car instead of driving by a gauge.
+1 My first manual car had no tach, I spent 20k miles learning in a 134hp 3,200 lb pickup truck. I recently found out that it actually has a fuel cutoff rev limiter at 6,500 rpm, fun car. And I know I was lucky with a 5 speed, good AC and power steering, lap of luxury right here.


Also, remember the conversation we had a few weeks back about how the younger generation is afraid to make mistakes? This thread is another good example, they don't want to fuck up their sports car, they want to operate their transmission the best that they can based on a wide set of datapoints and suggestions.
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Old 08-01-2015, 09:09 PM   #65
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I always went by feel and the sound of the engine. I paid attention to the tach today and its usually around 1200 rpm.

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Old 08-01-2015, 09:30 PM   #66
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Usually at or just under 2k I'll let the clutch out fairly quickly but smoothly and it isn't jerky.

Anything less and my cars headlights start to dim and the car feels like it's gonna stall on me. Keep in mind this is in traffic scenarios where you gotta get moving quickly. I can get the car going without even using the gas but that is so unrealistic in my area because I'd be a snail on the road.
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Old 08-01-2015, 10:21 PM   #67
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Also, remember the conversation we had a few weeks back about how the younger generation is afraid to make mistakes? This thread is another good example, they don't want to fuck up their sports car, they want to operate their transmission the best that they can based on a wide set of datapoints and suggestions.
My first manual car also didn't have a tachometer, and my second didn't have a tachometer or speedometer. I went by feel/sound and this car feels weird compared to every other manual I've driven. I can see why OP is asking what other people shift at becuase this car shifts strangely.
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Old 08-01-2015, 10:42 PM   #68
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For everyone who knows what a M/T should feel like but has trouble with this one. I can't say it enough.

It's the clutch! It's the clutch! It's the clutch!

Can I get a witness? @Koa, @Phantobe, @Jonesy86, @Decay107, @JB86'd, @504, @Andrew025...

Guys, this mod is cheap, easy, and totally reversible if you don't like it. The difference is dramatic and the feel of the clutch becomes totally intuitive.
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Old 08-03-2015, 11:03 AM   #69
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Originally Posted by strat61caster View Post
A fair amount, a modern vehicle tuned for a higher octane will reduce timing and therefore power on a lower octane fuel to prevent knock. If an engine is producing reduced power you will need to push the pedal harder and burn more gas to maintain your typical driving habits (merging on the freeway, cruising at 65).

(coincidentally this ties in with why turbo engines are now so popular, they are pseudo "high displacement" high power very thirsty motors when required such as merging and then when off the throttle they are small displacement gas sippers)

I've read and heard the correlation is that for every dollar you save filling up with low octane you loose about "a dollars worth of range" (i.e. you basically filled it up with ~$1 less of fuel from full of higher octane) so you cost of fuel/mile is the same with the cheaper fuel. I've never bothered to verify for myself so idk.


+1 My first manual car had no tach, I spent 20k miles learning in a 134hp 3,200 lb pickup truck. I recently found out that it actually has a fuel cutoff rev limiter at 6,500 rpm, fun car. And I know I was lucky with a 5 speed, good AC and power steering, lap of luxury right here.


Also, remember the conversation we had a few weeks back about how the younger generation is afraid to make mistakes? This thread is another good example, they don't want to fuck up their sports car, they want to operate their transmission the best that they can based on a wide set of datapoints and suggestions.

Driving habits and Octane are mutually exclusive.

If a car is "tuned for a higher octane" then its probably a requirement to use Premium octane.

If we take use that logic, a car tuned for "regular" Octane would get better MPG. Which is not true. Octane has an effect on Performance, but not MPG.
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Old 08-03-2015, 11:07 AM   #70
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i rev out to maybe 3k before shifting, and thats high for me. but i maybe go to 1k if that... ive had the car for a little over a month and a half and ive stalled maybe twice... fucking huge hills and cars on my rear bumper... i hate people
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