2017 BRZ suspension retrofit

[solidONE]

If you can get it cheaply, why not. You can probably find a set of low mileage MY15/16 dampers pretty cheaply off people upgrading their shocks now. But if your looking to spend close to 1K or however much they charge from the dealership there are plenty of better choices from the aftermarket. Flex-Z's are very compliant at the softer settings, much more compliant than a stock MY13 even with double the spring rates @ about 8~9 hundred for a new set.

[finch1750]

Blisteins and RCE Tarmacs or swift spec R

[Tcoat]

Originally Posted by kgc

To clarify - the ride is rougher and bouncier over rough pavement compared to the 2017, especially at speed. I'm trying to smooth out the ride quality while introducing no more body roll than I have to when starting / stopping / cornering.

I would prefer OEM while my warranty is in place, but it is not a super strong preference. Are there any specific aftermarket combos that you'd suggest?

Originally Posted by kgc

Budget $1000-2000

Not a hope you will get OEM parts within that budget.


What I haven't seen anybody say yet is that the new springs and dampers are only part of the equation as to why the 17s ride smoother. There were also some considerable reinforcing and bracing done to the whole car that contribute to the ride. Just changing the suspension would probably have very little impact and to install all the body mods would be pretty much impossible.


I would look to the aftermarket and a tire change to get a softer ride if I was you.

[strat61caster]

Originally Posted by Tcoat

Not a hope you will get OEM parts within that budget.

$390 Front strut assy, $270 rear.

Spring, damper, bump stop only: ~$1.1k for the full set assuming you re-use hardware currently on car. Plus shipping.

http://parts.subaru.com/a/Subaru_201...10-210-01.html

http://parts.subaru.com/a/Subaru_201...10-211-01.html

[kgc]

Originally Posted by Tcoat

Not a hope you will get OEM parts within that budget.


What I haven't seen anybody say yet is that the new springs and dampers are only part of the equation as to why the 17s ride smoother. There were also some considerable reinforcing and bracing done to the whole car that contribute to the ride. Just changing the suspension would probably have very little impact and to install all the body mods would be pretty much impossible.


I would look to the aftermarket and a tire change to get a softer ride if I was you.

Any tires that you would recommend? Looking around, it seems people are going for maximizing grip instead of ride quality.

[Tcoat]

Originally Posted by strat61caster

$390 Front strut assy, $270 rear.

Spring, damper, bump stop only: ~$1.1k for the full set assuming you re-use hardware currently on car. Plus shipping.

http://parts.subaru.com/a/Subaru_201...10-210-01.html

http://parts.subaru.com/a/Subaru_201...10-211-01.html

So over mid point of the budget with limited benefit if he is able to do it himself. I also sometimes forget to think in US prices. Here that would probably be pushing the $2K mark just for the parts.

Originally Posted by kgc

Any tires that you would recommend? Looking around, it seems people are going for maximizing grip instead of ride quality.

If you want to change rims then you could go with a 16 inch wheel and a decent quality touring tire. Even sticking to the 17 inch changing from a performance tire to a touring will help. What brand of touring I really don't know.

[strat61caster]

Originally Posted by Tcoat

So over mid point of the budget with limited benefit if he is able to do it himself. I also sometimes forget to think in US prices. Here that would probably be pushing the $2K mark just for the parts.

No argument, OP would be better off waiting a year or two to pickup a used set for ~$200.

http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=110968
http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=110937
http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=110229

[P@ul]

/\ What he said; just wait for take off parts. I bought 2015 suspension for dirt cheap; fully assembled struts made for a very easy installation. I bought a 16mm rear sway off some WRX forum.

[why?]

Originally Posted by Tcoat

If you want to change rims then you could go with a 16 inch wheel and a decent quality touring tire. Even sticking to the 17 inch changing from a performance tire to a touring will help. What brand of touring I really don't know.

Honestly if you still have stock wheels this would be the best first step. The extra sidewall height will soften things up a bit but you don't lose all the tail happiness that made that year FRS what it is. Plus tires are a little cheaper. You can get 16" RPF1's and General Altimax tires from tirerack. Depending on which size tires you choose it comes out to about $1200. It will be more livable and slightly raise the car as well.

[kgc]

Originally Posted by why?

Honestly if you still have stock wheels this would be the best first step. The extra sidewall height will soften things up a bit but you don't lose all the tail happiness that made that year FRS what it is. Plus tires are a little cheaper. You can get 16" RPF1's and General Altimax tires from tirerack. Depending on which size tires you choose it comes out to about $1200. It will be more livable and slightly raise the car as well.

Hmm, when I try to configure a tire/wheel package on Tirerack with the RPF1, the General Altimax doesn't show up as a compatible tire?

[renfield90]

I still don't understand what problem we're trying to solve here.

If your goal is to get a better/softer ride quality than OEM, sell your car and buy a Camry or a Forrester. This is a sports car.

[why?]

Originally Posted by kgc

Hmm, when I try to configure a tire/wheel package on Tirerack with the RPF1, the General Altimax doesn't show up as a compatible tire?

it won't show if you do it the way tire rack wants you to, but if you figure out what size you want then go pick the Altimax tires it will give you the option to have tire rack mount them and balance them for you. Unfortunately tire rack sets everything up so the dumbest of the dumb can not screw things up. If you go to the general tire site you will be able to see what altimax sizes are safe to mount on a 7" wide tire. And if you go to http://frsproject.com/ You can see what sizes keep the tire diameter close to stock. And if you really want to, tirerack's click to chat is really a great feature that will get you talking to someone who will be able to help you if you just want to double check to make sure everything will be ok.

I don't know if this will solve all your complaints, but getting a tire with a lot more sidewall will help soften up the ride quite a bit, and while it will negatively affect handling, unless you are on a track you shouldn't be able to tell the difference.

[Mim]

Originally Posted by renfield90

I still don't understand what problem we're trying to solve here.

If your goal is to get a better/softer ride quality than OEM, sell your car and buy a Camry or a Forrester. This is a sports car.

Its funny being able to drive the car on shity roads and not have to back off much compared to the slammed, suspension set to max hard crowd that have to slow down to avoid damage to their undercarriage.

This platform is not everything to everyone. I completely understand the desire to improve ride. The MY15 rides pretty well, but I want to make it even better. Let alone the MY13's that rode worse.

I'm going to Tein Flex Z's in two weeks after a long 4 month shipping wait. Rather wait for the container on a boat from a quarterly shipment then pay extra for airfreight.

I'd be also looking to some bracing. Though I only added the TRD door stabilisers and the STI strut brace, my ride improved noticeably.

[weederr33]

What about the new Sachs dampers which come with the 17 performance package?