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Engine, Exhaust, Transmission Discuss the FR-S | 86 | BRZ engine, exhaust and drivetrain.


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Old 12-12-2018, 08:32 PM   #15
86TOYO2k17
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Originally Posted by mikwerdna View Post
My FRS is my daily driver and I want the car to feel a little more alive and have a bit more oomph during everyday driving and increase the sound of the engine/exhaust a little bit.
For maintaining oem driveabilty and reliability and adding a bit more oomph. I would recommend ace header with delicious tune. If available E85 and flex fuel. Add in a catback of your preference for the sound you like. Then look at a final drive swap to really start pulling and make 4th gear useable. This combo will really wake the car up and make it feel like it should have from the factory.

But my personal recommendation. Once you start modding, you will always want a little more. “Another 20hp and I’ll be happy” But staying NA you’ll always want just a little more and never be satisfied. I did just about every NA mod possible without building the engine or stripping interior. And I finally said screw it and got a supercharger. Luckily a SC was in the back of my mind so nothing I did isn’t beneficial and usable with the SC or atleast sellable for most of my money back.

A good turbo or supercharger setup isn’t too much more then the above setup but will net twice the gains with minimal reduction in reliability. And then you should be happy. Or atleast closer to being happy.
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Old 12-12-2018, 09:06 PM   #16
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You picked the wrong transmission for simple bolt on mods. I suggest you save your money and buy a turbo instead. A fbo e85 auto twin will lose to a stock e85 tuned manual twin. Turbos are where the autos get the biggest gain in performance.

Last edited by Dr. BRZ; 12-12-2018 at 10:54 PM.
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Old 12-12-2018, 09:33 PM   #17
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I know this is blasphemy, but for DD my wife's stock automatic FRS gives the impression of being more powerful than my MT FRS. It's not that it has more power, it's just that accessing the top of the tach requires nothing but throttle. Even in normal mode, it downshifts quickly and always seems to know how many gears I want it to drop down the moment I apply throttle and it's always ready.

In sport mode, (transmission sport mode, not traction control sport mode) the car stays pretty hyped-up and holds gears at higher RPM's.

If you just want the car to feel more responsive, the AT sport mode is a cheap way to accomplish this. (Well, until you see you get to the gas pump)
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Old 12-12-2018, 11:21 PM   #18
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You picked the wrong transmission for simple bolt on mods. I suggest you save your money and buy a turbo instead. A fbo e85 auto twin will lose to a stock e85 tuned twin. Turbos are where the autos get the biggest gain in performance.
Both cars respond equally as well to mods / bolt ons. The Majority of the reason the MTs 0-60 / 1/4th mile is so much faster is bcs it can launch at such high rpm. With out launching/revving at all 0-60 stock MT 7.9sec AT 8.1, slightly quicker bcs the gearing. FBO E85 AT vs stock E85 MT from a roll AT will take it. Off the line MT will win. Personally I don’t care about stop light racing.

My AT stock on 92octane launching at 2400rpm ran 7.8sec 0-60 and 16.5sec 1/4mile with draggy.
Now FBO + 4.56FD swap still 92octane (and full tank) at 2400rpm launch did 6.6sec 0-60 (2nd shifts at 57mph now so have to shift to 3rd for 60) and 14.8 1/4mile.
So 1.2 off 0-60 and 1.7 off 1/4 mile.
Yes that’s about the same as a MT on 92 does 0-60 and only a few 1/10th faster in the 1/4mile
BUT
If stock MT does 7.9 no launch and 6.4 with a launch. That’s 1.5sec faster from launching. Now I’m launching at 2400 so I won’t get that full amount but even 1 second faster. Would put me at 5.6 and 13.8 on 92octane maybe 5.2 and 13.3 on E85?

Point is they are practically the same MT can launch, AT shifts faster and more consistent. Choose what you want more.
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Old 12-12-2018, 11:44 PM   #19
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Start with a catless header and a tune then build from there.
Spend lots of time researching on this forum...there's tons of great information here. Many have started where you are and gone down this long, never ending road, including myself...it is addictive...you have been warned.
Haha thanks a lot man and dw, I’m already finding myself going down that path. Would you recommend getting a catless header if I didn’t get a tune? My dealership told me a tune would likely void my warranty so I don’t want to risk that.
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Old 12-13-2018, 12:17 AM   #20
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Hi all,

I'm new to the car community and I'm looking to find relatively cheap options to get more horsepower and torque for my FRS. Additional noise would be appreciated as well but is not my primary focus.

What would you guys recommend? It is worth noting as well that I still have a 1 year end to end warranty and 3 years powertrain that I would like to not void.

Thank you!
I have a feeling that you would be best off just getting an axle back muffler that gives you a pleasant sound to your ears, drop in a free-er flowing air filter and leave the rest of the engine and powertrain alone.

There ya go - all modded up (or at least it will sound like it) and warranty work should not be denied.





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Old 12-13-2018, 01:34 AM   #21
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Originally Posted by mikwerdna View Post
Haha thanks a lot man and dw, I’m already finding myself going down that path. Would you recommend getting a catless header if I didn’t get a tune? My dealership told me a tune would likely void my warranty so I don’t want to risk that.
I would stay catted if I were you, unless you want to change out headers to go to the dealership and for inspection, but yeah that probably would void your warranty. Not too sure how tunes work on these cars, but if I remember correctly, they can see if the car's been tuned even if you go back to stock before taking it in. Correct me if I'm wrong. Either way, I've heard plenty of stories of dealerships not wanting to repair a car under warranty because of certain aftermarket parts so be careful with that.

I would just do research and narrow down the mods you want then see if they would void your warranty if it's important to you. Sucks having to jump through hoops to mod your car, but enjoy it man good luck
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Old 12-13-2018, 07:36 AM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mikwerdna View Post
Haha thanks a lot man and dw, I’m already finding myself going down that path. Would you recommend getting a catless header if I didn’t get a tune? My dealership told me a tune would likely void my warranty so I don’t want to risk that.
A header without a tune is almost pointless. The tune is where magic happens.

If you're more concerned about potentially battling with the dealer about your warranty or not having to remove parts and re-flash to your stock tune before taking it in for work, then do like @humfrz says and do a simple drop in air filter and catback/axleback. Maybe focus on the cosmetic stuff right now and save up for those performance mods when the time comes. That will give you plenty of time to make an informed decision about which direction you want to go.
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Old 12-13-2018, 04:07 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 86TOYO2k17 View Post
Both cars respond equally as well to mods / bolt ons. The Majority of the reason the MTs 0-60 / 1/4th mile is so much faster is bcs it can launch at such high rpm. With out launching/revving at all 0-60 stock MT 7.9sec AT 8.1, slightly quicker bcs the gearing. FBO E85 AT vs stock E85 MT from a roll AT will take it. Off the line MT will win. Personally I don’t care about stop light racing.

My AT stock on 92octane launching at 2400rpm ran 7.8sec 0-60 and 16.5sec 1/4mile with draggy.
Now FBO + 4.56FD swap still 92octane (and full tank) at 2400rpm launch did 6.6sec 0-60 (2nd shifts at 57mph now so have to shift to 3rd for 60) and 14.8 1/4mile.
So 1.2 off 0-60 and 1.7 off 1/4 mile.
Yes that’s about the same as a MT on 92 does 0-60 and only a few 1/10th faster in the 1/4mile
BUT
If stock MT does 7.9 no launch and 6.4 with a launch. That’s 1.5sec faster from launching. Now I’m launching at 2400 so I won’t get that full amount but even 1 second faster. Would put me at 5.6 and 13.8 on 92octane maybe 5.2 and 13.3 on E85?

Point is they are practically the same MT can launch, AT shifts faster and more consistent. Choose what you want more.
those are all mechanical numbers to me, doesn't mean anything. Out of all the autos ive raced with same mods or they have more mods, i have never lost to an auto from a launch or roll. The fbo e85 auto, i have beat 2 autos with my girls stock e85 tuned mt twin from a roll. She even beat them too. From what I've seen in the auto transmission, they are slower from a launch and rolls, NA style.
Or maybe all auto twin drivers are slower, see what i did there lol.
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Old 12-13-2018, 04:25 PM   #24
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those are all mechanical numbers to me, doesn't mean anything. Out of all the autos ive raced with same mods or they have more mods, i have never lost to an auto from a launch or roll. The fbo e85 auto, i have beat 2 autos with my girls stock e85 tuned mt twin from a roll. She even beat them too. From what I've seen in the auto transmission, they are slower from a launch and rolls, NA style.
Or maybe all auto twin drivers are slower, see what i did there lol.
I have had the opposite experience. 60-115pulls never lost to another 86. (Never raced a boosted one though)

Do you have vbox or draggy? Would love to see a verified pull for comparison purposes.
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Old 12-13-2018, 10:30 PM   #25
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From my experience there are no significant gains to be had with a stock tune so if you are unwilling to flash the ecu, just leave the car alone.
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Old 12-13-2018, 10:43 PM   #26
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6MT swap jkjkjk lol
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Old 12-14-2018, 01:56 PM   #27
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i have a 2017 AT, i got the ACE 350 header with Delicious flex fuel kit and custom tuning from Delicious, along with TRD air filter and Perrin catback exhaust. i'm done with modding and happy with my current set up, [small font] for now [/small font] LOL
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Old 12-18-2018, 11:01 PM   #28
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Nope, headers will void your warranty! My car is under warranty as well. I just take my aftermarket parts off and put the factory parts on when i go to the dealer for service. Hope this helps!




BTW, for what its worth, most of know you do this, we just don't care. Almost always, there are witness marks on nuts and bolts, and pry marks on clips..so we see it..Warranty is guaranteed pay for us. Hoping you will pay for something, is not. Personally, I'd rather warranty stuff for you regardless of what you do to the car.
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