06-07-2014, 02:07 PM | #1443 |
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That's a question for @CSG Mike or one of the other race drivers, but I'll contribute. You don't want the car tuned to oversteer, but it'll oversteer anyways if you give it too much power in a corner. Think spinning doughnuts vs. carving circles. It's easy enough to crank the wheel over, floor the throttle and whip the rear end around into a spin. It's less easy to crank the wheel over, give it enough throttle to break the rear wheels loose, then counter steer and turn your spin into a sustained and controlled drift that goes where you want it to go. It's much less easy to turn in on the correct line, ease in just enough throttle that the rear end barely starts to come around, don't counter steer at all, and then hold your car on that line by using throttle inputs to rotate the car through the corner. That's what throttle steering is.
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06-07-2014, 02:39 PM | #1444 | |
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Thanx. CERBERUS |
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06-07-2014, 07:30 PM | #1445 |
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No way. Your alignment must have been screwed up or the tires were screwed up to wear out OEM tires on 11k street miles.
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06-07-2014, 08:24 PM | #1446 |
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Is it ok to push the pistons back with my fingers when changing back to stock pads after a track day? Thank you!!
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06-07-2014, 08:43 PM | #1447 |
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The Following User Says Thank You to DatApex For This Useful Post: | becauseracecar1 (06-07-2014) |
06-07-2014, 08:51 PM | #1448 |
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I use a wood clamp. Before you remove the caliper from the bracket, hook one end of the clamp behind the caliper and use a socket as a spacer on the bracket. Then you can just ratchet the clamp shut; it pushes the caliper pistons against the rotor and forces them back into the caliper. Since the caliper is sliding on its pins and it's pushing against the rotor, the pistons get pushed straight in and there's no chance of them getting cocked in their bores.
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The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to gramicci101 For This Useful Post: | becauseracecar1 (06-07-2014), CSG Mike (06-07-2014) |
06-07-2014, 09:00 PM | #1449 | |
driving smoother faster
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You can use a small crowbar wrapped in painters tape at the elbow and tip to prevent scratching metal bits when you push against piston edge |
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The Following User Says Thank You to dp1 For This Useful Post: | becauseracecar1 (06-07-2014) |
06-07-2014, 09:35 PM | #1450 | |
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The Following User Says Thank You to troek For This Useful Post: | CSG Mike (06-07-2014) |
06-07-2014, 10:26 PM | #1451 | |
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Throttle steer? You need a near-neutral car to do it. You literally... press on the gas more until your car starts rotating mid corner, and you control that rotation with the gas pedal. Having an aftermarket LSD makes this throttle steer window substantially larger. |
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06-07-2014, 10:27 PM | #1452 | |
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See above... |
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06-07-2014, 10:28 PM | #1453 |
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06-07-2014, 10:29 PM | #1454 |
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The Following User Says Thank You to CSG Mike For This Useful Post: | becauseracecar1 (06-07-2014) |
06-07-2014, 10:30 PM | #1455 | |
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This way, you can easily rotate around the low speed stuff, and have confidence in the high speed stuff. I consider a neutral car one where you can dictate whether you under or oversteer, at will with steering or weight transfers, and can be throttle steered. A car with a ton of power that uses that power to oversteer is not necessarily a neutral car. Any car with big power can break tires loose. |
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The Following User Says Thank You to CSG Mike For This Useful Post: | gramicci101 (06-07-2014) |
06-07-2014, 10:32 PM | #1456 |
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