Got a track related question? I'll try to answer.

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by gramicci101

Is there any kind of adoption fee involved?

Just a reasonable one

[kavanagh]

Originally Posted by ATL BRZ

Check out my build thread: http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showt...96#post1677996

I'm running Schroth Profi II ASM 4-point harnesses with a street legal push release. The shoulder harnesses will be wrapped around my Agency Power bolt-in harness bar and will allow a HANS to be used. The harnesses are safe for use with stock seats with the anti-submarining belt and both sanctioning bodies I track my BRZ with (PCA and Hooked on Driving) allow it in their rule books. It's not ideal but it's definitely safer than the stock three points. The folks at Discovery Parts and HMS Motorsports agree.

I look forward to hearing how well this setup works for you. I like the street-legality of the push button and the engineering behind the 'twist' that your body is allowed in the event of a collision due to the differing lengths of harness strap inboard vs outboard. I assume you can really crank the straps nice and tight without inadvertently releasing the length reserved for a collision.

Originally Posted by CSG Mike

I wouldn't recommend a harness, unless you plan on caging the car, and getting buckets and a HANS type device. This effectively eliminates the car from street duty.

We use an OEM interior. Try sitting closer to the steering wheel, or using a CG Lock.

I sit pretty close to the steering wheel (at 6'3", it's almost hard not to) and pull the seat back pretty upright. I have a pretty happy driving position with bent elbows, but I really like the feeling of being strapped in uber tight at the shoulders. It comes from years of off-roading and F-16 flight training (my uncle was a pilot and instructor, not myself )

[SirBrass]

Street legal harness with AS & using a harness bar should be just as effective without any more risk than the factory belt. That is, as long as the seat gives proper pass-thrus for the shoulder straps.

On phone I am. Therefore, if mistakes I make, Frank Oz blame you should.

[Thongpocket]

Big thanks to CSGMike for the pads! I came down the long staight at 125 and did'nt use my brakes going into turn 10 until the 100 foot marker! Zero fade and still plenty of pad left (Project Mu Club Racers with Stop Tech slotted rotors) Last weekend was a blast at GTA Road Atlanta. My first lap was 2:06 and my final lap was 1:56. I still need way more seat time but the car is set up spectacular. I am going to go with a bit less camber out back and more in front.


[ame="http://youtu.be/XAT_lRgDIos"]http://youtu.be/XAT_lRgDIos[/ame]

[ATL BRZ]

Originally Posted by Thongpocket

Big thanks to CSGMike for the pads! I came down the long staight at 125 and did'nt use my brakes going into turn 10 until the 100 foot marker! Zero fade and still plenty of pad left (Project Mu Club Racers with Stop Tech slotted rotors) Last weekend was a blast at GTA Road Atlanta. My first lap was 2:06 and my final lap was 1:56. I still need way more seat time but the car is set up spectacular. I am going to go with a bit less camber out back and more in front.

LOL at your instructor waving his fingers non stop.

I watched a few laps and saw available speed everywhere.

Particularly turn 3, cresting the hill, entering the esses.

This is how I take turn 3:



Stay in the middle of the track as you go uphill into the blind entry ease the car left. Brake hard and straight at the rumble strips on the left side of the track at turn 2, take 3rd gear and immediately back on the gas and turn in to the big gator at turn 3. If you get both passenger's side wheels in the air you're doing it right. When the car hits the ground again then slowly reel it in with a constant steering angle back left to where the white paint is at the edge of the track and take 4th gear as you go downhill into the esses.

When running sticky tires the car shouldn't misbehave too much through that section.

[ame="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yPDJ5qz7sKM"]Porsche 944 S2 - SP3 Club Race at Road Atlanta - March 2013 - YouTube[/ame]


This footage should give you a better perspective on the true racing line around Road Atlanta in a ~215hp front engine, rear drive car that weighs around 2615 lbs dry and running meaty Hoosier racing slicks.

Next time put your GoPro on the driver's side quarter window so we can see your steering inputs!

[Thongpocket]

I agree. I think there is another 5-6 seconds I can shave off with this exact setup. I just need to be more aggressive and get more practice. Thanks for the advice. Hopefully I can do better at VIR in July.

Sent from my XT1080 using Tapatalk

[kavanagh]

Originally Posted by ATL BRZ

LOL at your instructor waving his fingers non stop.


Next time put your GoPro on the driver's side quarter window so we can see your steering inputs!

But finger waving adds at least five hp normally! In this case I think he got about 15 hp - very enthusiastic!

I actually like an instructor that's so animated, it's fun.

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by Thongpocket

Big thanks to CSGMike for the pads! I came down the long staight at 125 and did'nt use my brakes going into turn 10 until the 100 foot marker! Zero fade and still plenty of pad left (Project Mu Club Racers with Stop Tech slotted rotors) Last weekend was a blast at GTA Road Atlanta. My first lap was 2:06 and my final lap was 1:56. I still need way more seat time but the car is set up spectacular. I am going to go with a bit less camber out back and more in front.

Tim Kuo's S2000 is a great example of a car that's set up well.

[AZP Installs]

Originally Posted by kavanagh

A question for Mike and anyone else who wants to chime in...

Racing harness suggestions?

I've read through these forums ad nauseum (CG Lock, don't-run-a-harness-without-a-cage, 4 vs 5 point, anti-submarining, etc...), but what are you guys actually using? We'd like to keep the stock seats for daily comfort and don't care about access to the rear seats (the "shelf"). We don't mind wearing the harnesses on a daily basis. Looking for something safe that will keep us planted in the seat more firmly. So far we've been using the 'pull it fast so the seat belt locks' method, which sort of sucks.

Unless you put at least a 4-point in, don't run a harness. Also when you install them (must match both sides) make sure not to have long ends extending into the back seat area. They are made to stretch a certain percent, so if you have very long backs they will stretch a lot in an accident and it will do no good for you.

-Mike Paisan


Maintaining, Modifying and Educating TriState Enthusiasts since 2001.
Like us on Facebook! | E-mail: sales@azpinstalls.com | 725 Fairfield Ave | Kenilworth, NJ 07033 | 908.248.AZP1 (2971) |AIM: AZP Installs
"Race Tested, Enthusiast Approved!"

[SirBrass]

Originally Posted by AZP Installs

Unless you put at least a 4-point in, don't run a harness. Also when you install them (must match both sides) make sure not to have long ends extending into the back seat area. They are made to stretch a certain percent, so if you have very long backs they will stretch a lot in an accident and it will do no good for you.

-Mike Paisan


Maintaining, Modifying and Educating TriState Enthusiasts since 2001.
Like us on Facebook! | E-mail: sales@azpinstalls.com | 725 Fairfield Ave | Kenilworth, NJ 07033 | 908.248.AZP1 (2971) |AIM: AZP Installs
"Race Tested, Enthusiast Approved!"

That's not going to be an issue with a proper harness bar though, I'd think.

On phone I am. Therefore, if mistakes I make, Frank Oz blame you should.

[AZP Installs]

Originally Posted by SirBrass

That's not going to be an issue with a proper harness bar though, I'd think.

On phone I am. Therefore, if mistakes I make, Frank Oz blame you should.

Proper harness bar or not, it depends on who installs the harnesses, and where they anchor to the floor. I've seen harness bars where they anchor back in the rear seat and are still dangerous. You will also need a seat brace to prevent the seat back from causing issues.

As mike said, unless you are ready to cage it up stick with stock interior.

That's how I've always been taught and it makes sense.

CG lock is it IMO.

Also never run harnesses without at least a 4 point cage.

5-point harnesses will require you to cut the seat in the front as well to install them properly.


-Mike Paisan


Maintaining, Modifying and Educating TriState Enthusiasts since 2001.
Like us on Facebook! | E-mail: sales@azpinstalls.com | 725 Fairfield Ave | Kenilworth, NJ 07033 | 908.248.AZP1 (2971) |AIM: AZP Installs
"Race Tested, Enthusiast Approved!"

[SirBrass]

Anchor points should be at the factory restraint points anyway, right? And I'm not thinking FIA harness, but dot legal.

On phone I am. Therefore, if mistakes I make, Frank Oz blame you should.

[AZP Installs]

Originally Posted by SirBrass

Anchor points should be at the factory restraint points anyway, right? And I'm not thinking FIA harness, but dot legal.

On phone I am. Therefore, if mistakes I make, Frank Oz blame you should.

I don't think there are any legal DOT harnesses, most states don't allow them because you can't turn your head to look over your shoulder.

Factory restraint points are too sharp an angle for harnesses usually.

Don't mess with safety stuff unless you are really really qualified to do so, asking questions of a forum, really signals to me that the OP should bring it to a race shop and have them handle it.

Again, any harnesses not used in conjunction with at least a 4-point cage means you can get serious injury or death in a roof-collapse accident.

-Mike Paisan


Maintaining, Modifying and Educating TriState Enthusiasts since 2001.
Like us on Facebook! | E-mail: sales@azpinstalls.com | 725 Fairfield Ave | Kenilworth, NJ 07033 | 908.248.AZP1 (2971) |AIM: AZP Installs
"Race Tested, Enthusiast Approved!"

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by SirBrass

Anchor points should be at the factory restraint points anyway, right? And I'm not thinking FIA harness, but dot legal.

On phone I am. Therefore, if mistakes I make, Frank Oz blame you should.

Anchor points are at the sheet metal on the floor, transmission tunnel area, and harness bar.